Wednesday 28 June

Rose very early and was at work drawing long before sunrise. {86A?} O, the storks and jackdaws! Of one large white crumbling ruin they have wholly taken possession — against the sky, last night, they had a weird effect. Rambled about till 8 a.m., when I had breakfast alone. Church and Leeves came in, and it seems we are to go tomorrow to Patragik (Hypata), with an Officer of Engineers. From 9 to 11 a.m. I went out again and drew figures, and the “Piazza” or Ἀγορά. Returned — washed, dressed and dinner. O! Clatter ye storks! Slept. A stormy sky there was when we woke. I and C. went out to sketch, but it began to rain, so we came in and smoked a pipe, or pipes, till the “Galvanized Housekeeper” came back, with a General, or Captain, or something, who sate some time — an agreeable sort of man. The rain having ceased, I sketched again till dusk, and walked a little way down into the plain, coming back to tea. Would to goodness our tiresome new friend would cut and go! but I fear he goes with us tomorrow to Patragik — a bore! Tea. The German Officer of Engineers came in. We are to start tomorrow at 4 a.m. “Graphic Characters” on bread, at Lamia.[43]

Edward Lear, Lamia, 28 June 1848
Private Collection

[43] Bread was decorated with symbols or lettering for festivals; examples may be seen today in bread museums in Greece, such as those at Varnavas and Amfikleia. The loaves Lear saw may have been commemorating Orthodox Pentecost: 12 June 1848 in the Julian calendar and therefore 24 June in the Gregorian calendar.

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