Tuesday 20 June

Onward, with Janni and Co. Janni in a great fuss, asking the way every minute. A pretty plain of cornfields {sketch 54}, and then we cross a low range of hills, and descend to a valley. Thence a wonderful view of a chasm or ravine, which I had fain drawn. We then pass over a higher range of hills, cross a river, and descend to the sea, arriving there at after sunset. The sea was very rough, and a narrow rock-path only led on between immense cliffs and the waves. Bay after bay, headland after headland did we cross, the succession of black cliffs, the roar and foam of the water, seeming endless. By and by we came to a river, and half an hour went in finding a ford.

Edward Lear, Between Avlona and Kymi, 20 June 1848
Private Collection

“Two hours more” to Cumi, said a man in a hut. Up we went in the dark — awful precipices, but my horse never slipped. This lasted an hour, when, as we halted below a vast mass of mountain, Janni confessed to having lost his way. We shouted amain, and at length one of the baggage-men joined us from the other side of a ravine — one of their horses had fallen. After a winding down and up the ravine sides, came a long, long pull to Cumi {sketch 57?}— and here we actually are, in a verminious place, many gazers, and hash-bashy women. We are glad of tea and bed.

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